If you have the means, a night at the Royal Hotel’s exclusive new restaurant, Se7en, is an incredible experience.
Last weekend, the News OnTheWight team were treated by The Royal to the new seven-course tasting menu, created by Head Chef, Matt Egan and Sous Chef, Jacob Gough, with paired wines by Front of House Manager, Stefan Dobre.
What a treat it was, from beginning to end, taking dining at The Royal to another level.
Each and every dish was a gastronomic delight
Each and every dish was a gastronomic delight, with many surprises along the way.
When we were seated, Stefan, who was superbly attentive throughout the evening, explained the set-up and made sure we had everything we needed.
Some might think that seven courses would be enough, but once we’d settled in at the table, the Head Chef, Matt, came through to introduce himself, bringing with him an unexpected plate of canapes – each mouthful a hint of what was to come.
‘Cheese on Toast’ and English bubbly
This was followed by the humbly-named ‘Cheese on Toast’ – a toasted miniature brioche bun, filled with whipped Black Bomber cheese, and topped with yeast.
The Royal’s Gallybagger soufflé has always been a favourite, but this beats that dish hands down. An incredible taste sensation that will have cheese lovers wishing for more.
‘Cheese on Toast’ was paired with Nyetimber’s Classic Cuvee. Hailing from West Sussex, the ultra-fine bubbles made this an incredibly light ‘champagne’ and a perfect accompaniment to the dish.
Scallop and maple bacon ice cream
The second plate from the menu to arrive was a generous-sized hand-dived scallop in maple bacon ice cream, with rose apple fluid, tobikko (flying fish roe) and aged wasabi.
The idea of scallops sitting alongside ice cream was a real surprise, but one that didn’t disappoint. The tobikko added differing texture to the dish, whilst the aged wasabi provided a subtle kick.
The dish was paired with a Spanish number, Casa Do Sol ‘Froina Albarino’, a citrusy number with pine aromas. Another great choice by Stefan.
Lamb Faggot
The third tasting plate was a succulent Lamb Faggot, topped with kohlrabi and liquorice. It’s not a combination we’d ever thought of putting together, but it worked fantastically well.
A glass of Scott Base Pinot Noir from New Zealand was served with the faggot, filled with plums, cherries, herbs and spices, this wine paired brilliantly.
Chalk Stream Trout
The idea of a seven-course tasting menu might seem daunting to some, but the resting time given to diners between each plate was just the right amount.
Following the faggot came the perfectly-cooked Chalk Stream Trout plate served with grapes and a champagne and cultured cream sauce, with dehydrated pork fat crumbled on top. This was a revelation to us – looking at a white powder, you don’t imagine it can contain such a rich flavour.
There was initially a mixed response on our table to the Smokin’ Barrels Chardonnay, ‘Annie’, but once tasted alongside the trout, it really won us over.
The star of the show
The star of the show was undoubtedly the Salt Aged Island Fillet, served with cobnuts, 12 year old balsamic, cauliflower, vanilla and a slice of Barkham Blue cheese.
Such a winning combination of flavours, matched with probably the other highlight of the night, the Chateau Musar, a Lebanon red.
The strong aromas of sweet cherry and plum instantly hit us as the wine was being poured at the table and the taste was spectacular, with a smooth concentration of fruit, mocha and caramel.
Koji sorbet
As we were approaching the end of the menu, the dishes switched to desserts.
After the richness of the beef, blue cheese and the Chateau Musar, the Chef opted for something light and cleansing. The Koji sorbet made with Isle of Wight citrus served with sweet sesame and pink grapefruit absolutely hit the spot.
This was served with alongside the Mermaid Tear Drop cocktail, made and presented to us by Mervyn, the Royal’s expert mixologist.
Made with Mermaid Zest Gin, fresh lemon and grapefruit juices with elderflower the balance the acidity, it was a real winner not only as a standalone cocktail, but also complemented the sorbet dish perfectly.
‘Iced Coffee’
After three hours the meal had almost reached its end, with ‘Iced Coffee’, a transparent cup with a Peruvian dark chocolate dessert, smoked salt and Briddlesford milk, the final dish.
This was served with the last pairing of the meal, Elysium Black Muscat – violet-crimson in colour, with a rose-like aroma, this was very intense on the palate and full of fantastic rich velvety frit with a hint of strawberry jam – a great accompaniment to the dark chocolate dessert.
A decadent treat
The Se7en tasting menu was an absolute treat, well timed after a very busy period for us, so thank you very much to the chefs, as well as Stefan and the waiting staff, and more importantly thank you to The Royal for inviting us along.
The seven-course tasting menu is charged at £85 per person, or £140 per person with wine pairing. A vegetarian option is also available.
Se7en is open for intimate dining of up to 18 people and operates on Fridays and Saturdays only.
To book visit the Se7en Website where you can find more information about availability and seating times.
Image: © Julian Winslow
